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How Does It Feel? To Be On Your Own...Like a Complete Unknown...Like a Grenache Noir
Okay, confession time. Your intrepid Forgotten Grapes leader isn’t much of a Dylan fan. Oh sure, I know the basics – born Robert Zimmerman in Minnesota, folk god back in the day, went electric at the Newport Folk Festival and alienated as many of his old fans as he made new ones. Blood on the Tracks. Blonde on Blonde. Highway 61 Revisited. “Mr. Tambourine Man.” “Like a Rolling Stone.” “Subterranean Homesick Blues.” Time Out of Mind. That crazy movie where Cate Blanchett, Christian Bale and Heath Ledger all played Dylan-esque characters. We know all of that. But we don’t really know the man. We known his legend, but only tangentially and through cultural osmosis; we haven’t been there at every stop. We’ve never
bought a Dylan album or listened to one all the way through. We’re not a fan, which is not to say we don’t like hij or his music; we’re certainly appreciative of him, the legacy he’s forged, and everything he’s done for pop music and rock and roll.
But as we were thinking about this, we realized this same strata of recognition and respect but not necessarily admiration and fandom also exists when talking about this week’s Forgotten Grape, Grenache Noir (gruh-NOSH NUH-WAHR, but which from here on out, we’re just going to call Grenache since that’s the name it goes by. Sorry Dolly, Big Brother swiped your name right out from under you). It’s one of the most widely-planted, if not THE most widely-planted (reports vary) grapes around the world, and the wines that it does produce – from the Riojas of Spain to the GSMs of Australia to the Chateauneufs and Cote du Rhones of France to the 100% varietal wines of the U.S. – are universally respected and generally among the most popular when it comes to the drinking masses. And yet, when you talk about the best or most esteemed grape varietals on the planet, invariably the conversation swings away from Grenache – if passing near it at all – and more toward Pinot Noir or Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay or even Merlot. Really only the most cultish and obsessed of aficionados would dare bring Grenache into the conversation, and the probably only at the scorn and consternation of those other snobs he’s conversing with...and yet those same snobs will rave about the Grenache-heavy Rioja, Priorat, GSM, or Chateauneuf they just drank!
It’s enough to make a man want to holler, and the framework exists much in the same way that Dylan is often overshadowed by Elvis, Madonna, Michael Jackson, the Beatles, Rolling Stones (who cribbed their name from one of his songs!) and Beach Boys – hell, even Kurt Frelling Cobain – when it comes to the greatest recording artist of all time. Despite his longevity, his accomplishments, what he’s done to and for popular music, and the legacy he’s left behind (and is still leaving to this day...rumor has it he’s going to release his first Christmas album this year!), he still can’t seem to really claw his way to the top of the conversation...and yet everyone has nothing but the utmost respect for him.
That’s a lot like being called first runner-up, or better yet first loser, which neither Grenache nor Mr. Dylan are. No, both are ubiquitous superstars in their genres, loved the world over, and commonly equated with the working man. Both come from rural country roots but have transformed themselves into something much larger than most people ever thought they’d be. Yet both have never been able to shake off that mantle that they’re just too simple, nothing more than country. It’s a shame too, because it keeps people from discovering the real magic behind each. And yes, we include ourselves in that shameful lot.
So tomorrow, make a pledge to do exactly what Forgotten Grapes is going to do: head over to iTunes or your local record store (do they still have such things anymore? R.I.P. Licorice Pizza) and pick up Highway 51 Revisited or Blonde on Blonde or Time Out of Mind, then open up a bottle of Grenache or Garnacha (depending on where it hails from), pour yourself a tall glass, and listen to the album all the way through. What you’ll find in both cases is what we’ve suspected is there all along: genius in a bottle and genius on
a shiny plastic disc (or digital file of 1’s and 0’s, your call).
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What It Looks Like, What It Smells Like, and What It Tastes Like
Grenache Noir looks like:
Grenache Noir smells like:
Grenache Noir tastes like:
You may have heard some Pinot lovers refer to the bouquet of their favorite wines as having a “pencil box” nose (still one of my all-time favorite wine descriptors); well, Grenache has what can be terrned a “cigar box” nose. The scent of tobacco will definitely develop on a Grenache, and there should also be dirty, rustic smell to it – but rather than saying it smells like dirt, the proper way to describe it is earthy. Say it with me, earthy. Stone, minerals, soil, you’ll smell all of these things on a Grenache, and there even might be a hint of the old barnyard scents – what you and me might refer to as horse, animal, or leathery. All of these scents combine to make Grenache the distinct wine it is, but they also may play a part in why Grenache has such a difficult time overcoming its perception as a simple, peasant grape, both in black (noir) and white (blanc) form.
Depending on where they are produced, what latitude, and what the climate and terroir was like in that particular vintage, Grenache flavors can actually vary wildly. In Grenaches from cooler areas and years, you can often end up with drier, more rugged and animalistic flavors in your Grenache, some of the same leather and stables-like flavors along with lots of stone-like minerality. Any fruit will be an afterthought such as dried or black cherries and no residual sugar should exist at all. Dry, dry dry is that name of that game. However, in some hotter climates, where the water in the grape has evaporated off and left behind higher levels of sugar, you may get a tart, crisper, slightly sweeter wine with lots of cherry flavors, closer to a Cherry Jolly Rancher or Cherry Laffy Taffy. Either way, Grenaches tend to be fairly long wines in the mouth but don’t possess a lot of tannins to them. Acids yes, but tannins no.
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• Mourvedre, Cinsault, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Grenache Rouge. Five down, nine more to go. Yes, this is going to be a recurring theme. Sort of like Lost, but not as mysterious. And no Sawyer. Sorry, ladies.
• Grenache is actually a fairly well-traveled wine that has made its way across Europe and back again, but like any good tourist, it only wants to visit the warm parts. Diverging factions will have you believe that the Grenache grape actually got its start either in the Aragon region of Spain or on the Italian island of Sardinia. Regardless of which you see fit to accept, both were held under control of the kings and queens of Aragon during much of the middle ages. Which only makes sense, since an early name fo r the grape was Grenache Aragones. But it quickly spread around the Mediterranean with the Aragon conquerors, landing in Italy, Spain, Greece, and eventually France, particularly the southern regions of the Languedoc and Rhone valley, where it achieved immense popularity. Grenache made its way to Australia in the 1700’s and found its way to California in the mid-1800’s, where it was prized among early winemakers in the state for its heat and drought resistance. Grenache even made its way as far north as Washington’s Yakima Valley, where it’s still grown today despite the chillier climate to that of Grenache’s many other homes. And yes, if you see a bottle of Spanish wine called Garnacha, that’s still Grenache; they just pronounce it a little differently over there. Damn Romance languages...
• Yes, they’ve studied it in-depthly (in-depthly? Is that even a word?) and wine scientists have determined the Grenache Noir is actually the grape of origin for the Grenache family, and that Grenache Blanc is actually a mutation. So it does deserve the honor of carrying the Grenache name around solely for generations. But Grenache Blanc isn’t the only mutant sibling to be plucked from Grenache’s pulp-filled loins. In certain parts of southern France and Italy, a grapes called Grenache Rosé exists, as does another mutation called Grenache Gris. Both of these grapes are used to make – you guessed it! – Grenache-based rosé wines. There is also another grape out there called Grenache Peluda, but our intrepid wine scientists can’t decide if this “hairy Grenache” (yes, that’s what it translates to, because of its down-covered leaves) is actually a mutation of traditional Grenache or not.
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Fun Facts to Impress/Bore People At Parties
From Brein’s Brain to Your Plate
“Hmmm, now when I think Grenache, I typically think of a pretty simple wine with lots going on in it. Does that even make sense? I mean, there will usually be a lot of different flavors and aromas to the wine, but the pairings are pretty straight ahead because it’s a wine with not a lot of tannins in most cases and usually a lot of acid. So something like simple lighter grilled meats will go really well with a Grenache, preferably something that’s got a little gaminess to it to match the gaminess in the wine. Nothing overpowering like venison or wild boar, mind you, but lighter, like a grilled or roasted piece of veal, or some lamb chops served with mint sauce. Certain Grenaches with a strong acid kick to them and some tannic grip can even stand up to a steak and potatoes meal. In a lot of ways, a good Grenache will go better with a steak than many of the big, tannic, overpowering Cabs out there. Try it and see.”
“Okay, now having tasted some of these Grenaches, you know what they are to me? Total fig wines. I think they’d go perfectly with figs, the tart acidity and sharp cherry flavors balancing out that natural sweetness in the figs. But because it’s tough to just eat straight figs with a wine, try this. Take a squab, right – tiny little bird like a quail or a partridge that’s got a nice gamey flavor to it. Then stuff it with some wild rice for that same earthiness and dirty flavor you find in a Grenache, and throw a little foie gras in there for saltiness and richness. Roast or grill that sucker, then top it off with a fig sauce or even a fig jelly. Now that’s going to be super money dynamite with a cherry on top. Trust me on that one. Seriously.”
Okay, lastly, and maybe this only holds for some of the Spanish Garnacha like the Riojas and Priorats and what not, but Grenaches – of Garnachas, I guess – make terrific wines with paella. Seafood, Valencia, all meat, it doesn’t matter. You need a red wine with a paella, and the nice sharp acidity but fairly dry features of Spanish Garnachas should pair really, really well with any paella you serve. Just make sure to burn the bottom and get it really nice and crusty. That’s the way they really do it in Spain. The paella, not the wine.”
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Chef Brein Clements is the chef/owner of Restaurant Omakase in Riverside, CA, which
is quickly becoming SoCal’s answer to El Bulli. Minus the molecular gastronomy. He
began his cooking career at Domaine Chandon in the Napa Valley and moved on to become
Chef de Cuisine at the famed Balboa Bay Club before opening his own restaurant. Plus
he’s only 28. My man knows his wine and he knows his food. Each week he’ll provide
ingredient and dish recommendations that match up well with the week’s forgotten
grape. You should heed what he says. No, seriously, heed it.
2005 Cedar View Old Vine Grenache
Leave it to our old Friend Jim Van Haun – he of the amusement park-like Alicante
Bouschet – to take us for another ride with his other vineyard staple, his Old Vine
Grenache. Despite the age of the vines, the wine itself had a young, vibrant freshness
to it, with a light garnet color, a lighter body than expected, and scents of dirty,
brambly raspberries, cinnamon and spices, and – we kid you not – Bubble Tape. Remember
Bubble Tape? Well the inside of a Bubble Tape container is what this wine reminded
us of. Jim calls it vanilla; we call it Bubble Tape. Flavor-wise, the wine was exceptionally
dry – not what we’d expect from such fresh scents, but what we would from vines over
50 years old (sadly, this was the last vintage from these particular vines, as they
were later torn up so the land could be turned into a housing development. Boo, greedy
developers, boooooo! Anyway, you need to snap this up while there’s still some left.
They don’t have online ordering yet (get with the times, Jim!), so give Jim a holler
at (866) 738-6420 or e-mail him at info@cedarviewwinery.com and pick up a bottle
of twelve. And tell him Forgotten Grapes sent you.
2006 Yalumba Bush Vine Grenache
Our new Friend Mike at La Bodega hooked us up with this particular wine, saying we
had to try it because it went against everything he knew about Australian wine. Now,
you know how we feel about Australian wines – they’re just like Aussies themselves:
big, brash, and bold, but typically a little uncultured and uncouth. But this wine
was a true revelation. Not at all dirty on the nose compared to the other Grenaches,
but with bakery and brioche flavors and some residual sugar too. On the palate it
was soft and creamy with strong, bright fresh cherry flavors. It wasn’t as long as
the Cedar View, and to be honest, if you’d have put this down in front of Brein and
me without telling us what it was, we probably would have guessed it was a Pinot;
it was that soft and cherry. A perfect entry wine into the wild world of Grenache
for all those Pinot snobs you know, pick up a bottle from Mike at La Bodega and prepare
to be wowed by something Australian...but wowed for its subtlety, not for its brashness.
Our Friend of the Forgotten Grapes Tasting Squadron tastes all of the wines you see
here ahead of time to ensure that you aren’t getting anything rotten or clunky. We
also try to ensure that most of the wines highlighted here are affordably priced
($20 or less) so you can try them out for yourself without having to take out a second
mortgage or sacrificing your kid (or future kid’s) college fund to do so. Lastly,
the Friends of the Forgotten Grapes has relationships with all the fine wine purveyors
we link to in this section. We know them, we trust them. You can order these wines
from them online right now and be trying them out in the next couple of days. Do
yourself a favor and order from them by using the links below. It’s totally worth
it. And tell them that ForgottenGrapes.com sent you, too.
Interestingly, what can look like a deep, dark, rich wine in the bottle will actually pour much lighter into the glass. Most Grenaches have a light ruby to garnet color to them, and are surprisingly opaque compared to other red wines. You won’t necessarily be able to see yourself or anyone else through a glass, but because of the lighter tannins in the wine, it should end up being a brighter and more brilliant and luminescent shade of red that you might have expected. And by the way, who the hell knew that Kenny Rogers once had his own backing band with a proper name and everything? The man is a god, I tell you what.
2007 Las Rocas de San Alejandro Calatayud Garnacha
Hmmm, we’ve worked out way from the U.S. to Australia and from 2005 to 2006...what
do you think is next? For the record, Calatayud is a Spanish wine region located
in the province of Aragon (and what was that we were saying about Aragon earlier?),
which is tucked in just west of Catalonia and to the east of La Rioja. This particular
wine has a rather floral scent to it resembling gentle hibiscus, which then morphed
to a bouquet of dark cherry and light brambles. This wine was darker than the others
we tried, and also drier and more animal, rugged and dry with dried dark cherry flavors.
It had a bit more tannin than the other wines which worked against the acidity and
gave this wine a particularly nice balance, and it had some length to it as well.
Napacabs.com is your hook-up for this particular Spanish beauty, so pick up a bottle
to pair with your next paella. Just don’t use this to make Sangria, because let’s
face it, that would be a waste of a perfectly good, really wonderful wine. Not that
we’re against Sangria, but save the bad bottles you get from houseguests for that.
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Go On. Try It. You’ll Like It. 
